Shoe manufacture



Aug. 13, 1935. v. H. Moss SHOE MANUFACTURE Filed Sept. 25, 19251 I72 ventar;

, Vkrnmz H fly/0J1). & w w AZZ a Patented Aug. 13, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE MANUFACTURE Vernon H. Moss, Brookline, Mass.

Application September 25, 1931, Serial No. 565,040

12 Claims.

This invention relates to shoe manufacture, and pertains more particularly to improvements in methods of making ladies shoes and in the resulting product. The general purpose is to produce by simple and economical processes resulting in the reduction of time, labor and cost of materials, a comfortable, durable and stylish shoe possessing the several advantages of the turn and McKay-sewed shoes without the inherent and well known short comings of shoes made by the ordinary turn orMcKay method, and also embodying novel and meritorius departures from such methods and from other sho making processes.

In accordance with my invention, the improved shoe may be made in large-quantities at relatively low cost by suitable mechanical apparatus insuring proper alignment, uniformity of production and correct size; it is unusually comfortable and neat in appearance by reason of its flexibility, light weight, smooth linings, proper fitting qualities, and sleekness of line; it combines the requisite firmness and rigidity at the shank with full resilience and flexibility of the forepart; it is characterized by the elimination of objectionable nails, tacks or other fastenings which impede the manufacture of the shoe and which are likely to cause undue rigidity of the shoe or discomfort to the wearer; and it is peculiarly adapted for the employment of a box toe and/or a built-in arch support.

I have found that these desirable qualities may be attained in a simple and eflicient manner by practicing the improved process herein described in connection with the accompanying drawing illustrating recommended embodiments of my invention; and the more specific objects of the in vention and the advantageous features of the improved method and product will be apparent from the following description and will be pointed out in the appended claims. It will be understood that, the particular materials and steps herein set forth to illustrate preferred modes of practicing my invention may be varied to suit particular purposes without departing from the essence of this invention as defined in said claims.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a last equipped with a forepart insole and shank member preparatory to lasting, in accordance with this invention;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary view showing a lined upper applied and lasted upon the forepart insole and shank member, a part of the upper being broken away;

Fig. 3 is a composite view through the forepart of the last illustrating the mode of preparing the inturned margins of the lasted upper and outsole prior to the attachment of the outsole;

Fig. 4 is a similar view with the last removed 5 showing the outsole adhesively secured in place;

Fig. 5 is a sectional view across the forepart of a modified shoe in which the outsole is also secured by stitching;

Fig. 6 L a perspective view of a shoe in which 10 the outsole is stitched in position only at the forepart thereof; and

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary longitudinal section of the toe portion of a shoe embodying a further modification.

In making a shoe according to the preferred method shown in Figs. 1 to 4, a relatively stiff shank piece ll? of leather or other suitable material which may be strengthened by a metal strip or reinforcement II, is applied to the heel and shank portion of the bottom of a suitable last l2 and is secured thereon as bytemporary tacks I3; and a thin soft and flexible forepart lining of fabric such as fiannelet or of limp leather, is placed upon the forepart of the last with its rearward edge overlapping or abutting the front edge of the shank member Ill. Temporary tacks I5 may be used to hold the forepart lining in position, and when the two members overlap each other, as preferred and shown at l6 of Fig. 1, the overlapping portions may be cemented, stitched or otherwise fastened together. The member l4 approximately conforms to the contour'of the forepart of the last and preferably forms part of the completed shoe as a permanent half insole. The front end and sides of the forepart piece are preferably stiffened or reinforced by impregnating or coating the marginal portions of the leather or fabric strip with a hardening solution or agent such as a celluloid composition, cellulose acetate,- 40 or the like, as indicated at H in Fig. 1. Such reinforcement affords adequate firmness for wiping in the toe portion of the upper and also assists in maintaining the shape of the upper after lasting. If additional reinforcement is desired at the toe of the shoe, an auxiliary toe piece l8 of leather or other firm thin material may be applied over the forepiece l4 and secured thereto by cement or any suitable fastening, as shown in Fig. '7.

The lined upper is prepared for lasting in the usual manner and, before it is pulled in over the last, the free margins of the upper I9 and its lining 20 are preferably stiffened by cementing together the upper and its lining or linings by means of a suitable adhesive which provides a reinforced region or band capable of being turned and shaped during the lasting operation but adapted to retain its ultimate position after the adhesive has set. The cemented area preferably extends inwardly a substantial distance from the edges of the up per and its lining and is employed around the forepart of the upper as indicated by the broken line 2| of Fig. 2. If desired, however, the reinforcement may pass entirely around the upper; and the reinforced area may be further strengthened at the forepart of the shoe by inserting one or more thin stay pieces of leather or rubberized fabric (not shown) between the cemented upper l9 and lining 20. In some cases it may be desirable to use for this purpose a soluble cement which may be wholly or partially softened or removed by a suitable solvent after the shoe is finished.

After the upper is assembled upon the last l2, its edges are pulled in over the forepart and shank members l4 and I0 respectively, and the inturned margins are preferably lasted thereto by means of a suitable cement, although temporary tacks (not shown) may be employed to hold the parts in proper position until the cement has dried. Thereupon, the tacks .l3 and I5 and any other temporary fastening elements are withdrawn and the upper and insole members are prepared for the the attachment of the outsole 22. For this purpose, the inturned margins of the lined upper are reduced and taper-ground, as by a rotating wire brush, to provide a roughened and inwardly inclined surface as shown at 23, of Fig. 3. The periphery of the outsole 22 is similarly roughened and beveled at 24 so that the opposed surface of the outsole substantially conforms to the concavity between the edges of the lasted upper. After the said opposed surfaces are roughened or buffed in the manner aforesaid, a liberal coating of a suitable adhesive composition is applied thereto, firmly to secure the outsole which is laid in accordance with common practice. While a thin fabric filler may be inserted between the outsole and insole members within the bordering edges of the upper, I preferably employ a relatively thick outsole bevel-ground at its margins as aforesaid, so that its central portion flts closely against the shank piece I0 and forepart member I4, as illustrated in. Fig. 4.

While a suitable sole-laying cement will satisfactorily unite the outsole in place it may be desirable to stitch the sole in a McKay machine, in which case a weaker cement may be used. For this purpose the outsole is preferably provided with an inclined channel 26 to receive the stitches 21, the channel being closed by cement when the shoe is finished. The stitching may pass entirely around the shoe, but I prefer to restrict its use to the forepart of the sole, that is forwardly of the front edge 28 of the shank member, as shown in Fig. 6. This important variation in the method of attaching the outsole eliminates the troublesome problems of changing tension encountered when all-around stitching passes over the forward edge of the shank piece onto the relatively thin forepart member I4, and also avoids objectionable weakness or grinning at the break of the shoe.

After the sole has been secured by either of the optional modes above described, the shoe may be-bottom-finished, edge-set and heeled in any common manner, and a sock lining 29 may be applied over the insole members of the completed shoe.

A shoe constructed as above described is economical to manufacture, as it avoids the necessity of using expensive machines, materials and labor; it is neatand stylish in appearance, and comfortable to the wearer; and it combines extreme flexibility at the forepart with arch-supporting rigidity at the shank without sacrifice of durable and wear-resisting qualities. The several features which contribute to the attainment of these desirable characteristics are set forth in the appended claims, and my invention is intended to cover the method or product therein defined without limitation to precise steps or materials above set forth. 1

I claim:

1. A process of making shoes comprising as steps treating a marginal portion of a soft and flexible forepart insole with a stiffening agent to harden said portions while leaving the mid portion of said insole unstiffened, placing the insole upon the forepart of a last, assembling an upper upon the last, pulling the margins of the upper overthe edge of the insole and securing them in position, and attaching an outsole upon the inturned margins of the upper.

2. A process of making shoes comprising as steps impregnating the toe portion of a soft and flexible fibrous insole with a stiffening agent to harden said portion while leaving the mid portion of said insole unstiffened, placing the insole upon the forepart of a last, assembling an upper upon the last, pulling the margins of the upper over the edge of the insole and securing them in position, and attaching an outsole upon the inturned margins of the upper.

3. A process of making shoes comprising as steps treating the toe and side portions of a soft and flexible forepart insole with a stiffening solution to harden said portions while leaving the mid portion of saidinsole unstiifened, placing the insole upon the forepart of a last, assembling an upper upon the last, pulling the margins of the upper over the edge of the insole and securing them in position, and attaching an outsole upon the inturned margins of the upper.

4. A process of making shoes comprising as steps treating the margin of a soft and flexible insole member with a stiffening solution to harden said margin while leaving the mid portion of said insole unstiffened, placing said member upon the bottom of a last, assembling a lined upper upon the last, stiffening the margins of the .lined upper at the forepart thereof before said margins are lasted over said insole member, pulling the margins of the upper over the insole and securing them thereto by cement, and attaching an outsole.

5. A process of making shoes comprising as steps treating the toe and side portions of a soft and flexible forepart insole with a hardening solution while leaving the mid portion of said insole unstiffened, applying said insole to the forepart of a last, applying a stiff shank member to the heel and shank portion of the last, assembling a lined upper, upon the last, pulling in and cementing the margins of the upper to the forepart insole and shank member, and attaching an outsole.

6. A process of making shoes comprising as steps treating the toe and side portions of a soft and flexible forepart insole with a harden- 1 ing solution, applying said insole to the forepart of a last, applying a stiff shank member to the.

heel and shank portion of the last, assembling a lined upper upon the last and cementing together the upper and upper lining at the forepart of the shoe before lasting the upper over the insole members, thereby to stiffen the cemented portions of the upper, pulling in and cementing the margins of the upper to the forepart insole and shank member, reducing and inwardly tapering the inturned margins of the upper, reducing and tapering the margins of an outsole so that the outsole approximately conforms to the concavity between the edges of said inturned margins, and cementing the outsole in place.

8. A process of making shoes comprising as steps applying an insole member tothe forepart of a last and a shank member to the heel and shank portion of the last, assembling an upper upon the last, pulling the margins of the upper over the insole members and cementing said margins thereto, grinding the inturned margins of the upper and tapering them inwardly, beveling the margins of an outsole so that the surface of the outsole approximately conforms to the concavity between said tapered margins, channeling the edges of the outsole at the forepart thereof, cementing the outsole to the insole members and to the 'intumed margins of the upper, and stitching through theoutsole, upper and forepart insole at the channeled portion of its outsole so that the stitching terminates forwardly of the shank member at opposite sides of the shoe.

9. A shoe comprising a lined upper having inturned bottom margins, the upper and its lining being locally cemented together to reinforce the upper at opposite sides of the forepart of the shoe, a forepart insole of thin and soft textile fabric having stiffened margins applied to the inner sides of said inturned margins at the front portion of the shoe, a shank member of relatively thick and heavy leather applied to said margins at the heel and shank portion of the shoe, the outer sides of said inturned margins having inwardly tapering surfaces, an outsole having beveled margins applied and cemented to said tapering surfaces, the central portion of the outsole substantially filling the cavity between the edges of the inturned upper and being cemented to the forepart insole and shank member, and stitching joining the outsole, inturned upper and forepart insole, said stitching terminating forwardly of said shank member at opposite sides of the shoe.

10. A process of making shoes, which comprises stiffening a marginal portion of a, soft and limp insole member, applying said member to the forepart of a last, applying a relatively stiff shank member to the rearpart of the last, applying an upper to the last and adhesively securing its edge portions to said members, and securing a sole upon the edge portions of the upper.

11. A process of making shoes, which comprises stiffening the toe and side portions of a soft and limp insole member, applying said member to the forepart of a last, applying a relatively st-ifi shank member to the rearpart of the last so that the adjacent ends of said members are in overlapping .relation, applying an upper to the last and adhesively securing its edge portions to said members, and adhesively attaching an outsole upon the edge portions of the upper.

12. An insole adapted for use in lasting a shoe, comprising a forepart member consisting of a strip of thin, soft and flexible material and means applied to the toe and adjacent side portions of the forepart member for stiffening said portions, the central area of said member being unstifiened.

VERNON H. MOSS. 

